Designer Mario Keine revealed the newest MARKE collection at Berlin Fashion Week, showcasing it in collaboration with NEWEST and Museum & Location at the Kulturforum. As an enthusiast of the brand, I am thrilled to see how MARKE continues to grow from season to season, bringing innovative designs and thoughtful critiques to the fashion world.
The inspiration for the “Zapfenstreich” collection stems from the rural marksmen’s festivals that influenced Keine during his upbringing in Sauerland. Uniform jackets, trousers adorned with pennants, and sashes reflect his critique of traditions and groups that perpetuate exclusion and discrimination. Launched in 2021, MARKE (an acronym embodying Mario Keine’s name) is driven by the belief in the human spirit and personality as free and dynamic constructs. The brand’s collections allow characters to explore varying aesthetic forms, emphasizing hybridity, fluidity, and eclecticism.
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Runway Pictures: © Alexander Fischer for BFW @studioalexanderfischer
Drawing a rich canon of inspiration from art, culture, historical periods, folklore, and futuristic epochs, MARKE’s collections delve into the contexts of past and present. They balance conventional and innovative manufacturing techniques in producing apparel, jewellery, and accessories, maintaining a strong connection to historic craftsmanship while pushing the boundaries of modern design.
All MARKE apparel collections are sourced circularly and produced exclusively in Germany and Poland, ensuring sustainability and ethical manufacturing practices.
What inspired you for this collection?
Growing up in Sauerland and participating in local music clubs, Keine experienced many shooting festivals. At these events, members of the local shooting brotherhood would compete in shooting at a wooden bird, with the victor and their partner being celebrated. These festivals, often resistant to innovation, inspired Keine to reflect on the exclusivity and lack of inclusivity within traditional customs.
What is particularly significant about this collection?
This collection distinctively blends traditionally masculine forms with elements drawn from queer culture. This fusion is evident in the silhouettes and the usage of materials and colours, challenging conservative fashion norms critically.
What materials, colours, and silhouettes are central?
The collection reinterprets typical shooting festival attire by integrating visual aspects of marginalized groups. Vibrant plaids, jerseys, and mélange fabrics in hues such as turquoise-pink and black-red showcase the celebration of individuality. All materials are sourced from Italian overstock and deadstock fabrics, reinforcing the collection’s sustainability commitment.
