Marie Lueder captivated the audience at Berlin Fashion Week with the unveiling of her transformative “Rubedo” collection during the INTERVENTION by Reference Studios showcase. Drawing from the pinnacle of Alchemical tradition, “Rubedo” signifies profound transformation and unification, and we love it!
The process of Rubedo, associated with the colour red as fire, a tint of ash, green matter, and sealed brown burnt wood, is beautifully reflected in the collection. Marie Lueder’s designs embody these rich colour schemes, inspired by traditional Alchemical processes both conceptually and aesthetically. The collection speaks of the ultimate metamorphosis where the ego merges with the self, and the individual reintegrates with the collective, resonating with the intricate processes of Alchemy to offer a visual and symbolic narrative of transformation.
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Runway Pictures: © Finnegan Koichi Godenschweger @godenschweger.photography
Marie Lueder Unveils Transformative “Rubedo” Collection at Berlin Fashion Week during INTERVENTION
The runway show, curated to echo the primordial motif of the magical circle—a powerful symbol in Alchemy and spiritual rituals—was nothing short of mesmerizing. Opening with a vape trickster creating dispersing smoke rings, the show introduced the circular theme that carried through the performance. Models gracefully moved around a dimly lit round space, forming a symbolic ring that commemorated the collection. Each step and gesture was a testament to the alchemical practice, creating an enchanting atmosphere that left us in awe.
Born in Hamburg and coming from a lineage of health practitioners, Marie Lueder’s fashion narrative stands out with accentuated knee panels, dual-tone denim, ruched Bombers, and recurring spiral motifs. These elements reflect her deep engagement with the anxieties of modern life. After launching her eponymous label at London Fashion Week in February 2020, Lueder has described her clothing as metaphorical armour, inspired by overcoming mental challenges. With a background in fashion design from the University of Applied Sciences in Hamburg and a Master’s in Menswear from the Royal College of Arts in London, Lueder has swiftly risen to recognition. Her partnerships with esteemed retailers like Browns Fashion in London, H. Lorenzo in L.A., and Slam Jam in Milan highlight her growing influence. This year, she proudly won the Berlin Contemporary Prize by the German Fashion Council.
A special shout-out goes to the sponsors: Puma (Yannic Akinyosoye and Angelique Houben), and material sponsors and collaborators Tintoria Emiliana for their innovative and sustainable techniques. Key collaborators included Atelier Viscera for jewellery, artist David Varhegyi for movement, Kyyberwall for music, Mia Violet for airbrush art, and Tati Cotliar for styling and consultation.
Marie Lueder’s “Rubedo” collection is a transformative journey through fashion, and we can’t get enough of it.
